BRUSHES I     use     a     large     soft     hair     flat     for     big washes,    a    large    Chinese    brush    and    a size     10     round     for     general     use,     a Kolinsky    sable    size    7    round    for    more detailed    work    and    a    small    swordliner for      branches      and      squiggles.      Brush selection      is      very      personal.      Regular visitors    will    notice    I    have    changed    my selection      over      the      years,      but      the constant     factor     is     that     all     brushes release    the    paint    gently    and    evenly. Avoid       bristle       brushes.       They       are designed    for    oils    and    are    much    too harsh   for   watercolour.   Don’t   use   them for   lifting   out   -   with   my   ancient   size   8 sable     I     can     lift     out     the     finest     line. Synthetic   brushes   are   getting   better   all the    time    so    don’t    discount    them    and ignore    the    often    repeated    idea    that    a sable   brush   will   last   a   lifetime.   It   won’t. The   point   will   wear   away   within   a   few months of regular use.
PAINT I   recommend   artist’s   quality   tubes   from the     major     manufacturers     They     stay moist    for    longer,    have    more    pigment and   often   seem   more   transparent.   Like most     people,     I     love     a     bargain     but please    avoid    the    really    cheap    sets    of paint   that   cost   the   same   as   a   tube   of decent    stuff    -    they    are    horrible    and completely    useless    even    for    practice. Colours    are    very    personal    -    use    what you   like   -   but   in   case   you   are   interested I use: BLUES:     Ultramarine     (warm),     Phthalo Blue GS (cool) Cobalt Blue (neutral) REDS:   Cadmium   or   Pyrrol   (Winsor)   Red (warm) Quinacridone Magenta (cool) YELLOWS:      Cadmium      Yellow      (warm) Aureolin (cool) SPECIALS:   Quinacridone   Gold   -   A   lovely warm   yellow/gold.   Burnt   Sienna   -   A   dull orange   that   is   a   great   mixer,   dulling   too bright    greens    reds    and    blues.    White Gouache   -   perfect   for   highlights   but   use in moderation.
PAPER Use   only   reputable   makes   and   find   one or   two   that   you   like   and   stick   to   them. Different    weights    and    surfaces    of    the same      paper      can      behave      in      very different   ways.   I   use   Bockingford   200lb NOT   (cold   pressed)   for   most   of   my   work but   I   also   use   Saunders   200lb   NOT   and rough,       Millford       140lb       NOT,       and Bockingford     140lb     HP     for     pen     and wash,    all    made    by    St.    Cuthbert’s    Mill.  With   heavier   paper   I   just   tape   them   to a   lightweight   plastic   board   and   I   make my     own     blocks     with     lighter     paper. Blocks   are   handy   because   they   do   not need    a    board    and    although    the    paper will   cockle   when   wet,   it   will   dry   flat   as long   as   you   do   not   remove   it   from   the block     until     it     is     completely       dry.     Hot pressed   paper   is   not   recommended   for beginners   as   the   paint   tends   to   stay   on the    surface,    making    it    very    difficult    to paint a smooth wash.
GRAHAME BOOTH 26 GILNAHIRK CRESCENT BELFAST, BT5 7DU NORTHERN IRELAND
 GRAHAME BOOTH 2017 | PRIVACY POLICY
Some specialised art bags can be very expensive. I use a camera bag from Amazon which works great. I can fit everything I need into this bag, including a compact easel, pens, pencils, brushes, paints, water carrier, quarter sheet paper and even a tiny PA system that I use when demonstrating. It is easy to carry and it is small enough to take on board an aircraft.
BRUSHES I   use   a   large   soft   hair   flat   for   big   washes,   a   large   Chinese brush   and   a   size   10   round   for   general   use,   a   Kolinsky   sable size   7   round   for   more   detailed   work   and   a   small   swordliner for      branches      and      squiggles.      Brush      selection      is      very personal.    Regular    visitors    will    notice    I    have    changed    my selection   over   the   years,   but   the   constant   factor   is   that   all brushes    release    the    paint    gently    and    evenly.    Avoid    bristle brushes.   They   are   designed   for   oils   and   are   much   too   harsh for    watercolour.    Don’t    use    them    for    lifting    out    -    with    my ancient   size   8   sable   I   can   lift   out   the   finest   line.   Synthetic brushes    are    getting    better    all    the    time    so    don’t    discount them   and   ignore   the   often   repeated   idea   that   a   sable   brush will   last   a   lifetime.   It   won’t.   The   point   will   wear   away   within   a few months of regular use.
PAINT I      recommend      artist’s      quality      tubes      from      the      major manufacturers   They   stay   moist   for   longer,   have   more   pigment and   often   seem   more   transparent.   Like   most   people,   I   love   a bargain   but   please   avoid   the   really   cheap   sets   of   paint   that cost   the   same   as   a   tube   of   decent   stuff   -   they   are   horrible   and completely     useless     even     for     practice.     Colours     are     very personal   -   use   what   you   like   -   but   in   case   you   are   interested   I use: BLUES:    Ultramarine    (warm),    Phthalo    Blue    GS    (cool)    Cobalt Blue (neutral) REDS:   Cadmium   or   Pyrrol   (Winsor)   Red   (warm)   Quinacridone Magenta (cool) YELLOWS: Cadmium Yellow (warm) Aureolin (cool) SPECIALS:    Quinacridone    Gold    -    A    lovely    warm    yellow/gold. Burnt   Sienna   -   A   dull   orange   that   is   a   great   mixer,   dulling   too bright    greens    reds    and    blues.    White    Gouache    -    perfect    for highlights but use in moderation.
PAPER Use   only   reputable   makes   and   find   one   or   two   that   you   like and    stick    to    them.    Different    weights    and    surfaces    of    the same     paper     can     behave     in     very     different     ways.     I     use Bockingford   200lb   NOT   (cold   pressed)   for   most   of   my   work but   I   also   use   Saunders   200lb   NOT   and   rough,   Millford   140lb NOT,   and   Bockingford   140lb   HP   for   pen   and   wash,   all   made by   St.   Cuthbert’s   Mill.    With   heavier   paper   I   just   tape   them   to a   lightweight   plastic   board   and   I   make   my   own   blocks   with lighter   paper.   Blocks   are   handy   because   they   do   not   need   a board   and   although   the   paper   will   cockle   when   wet,   it   will dry   flat   as   long   as   you   do   not   remove   it   from   the   block   until it   is   completely     dry.   Hot   pressed   paper   is   not   recommended for    beginners    as    the    paint    tends    to    stay    on    the    surface, making it very difficult to paint a smooth wash.
Edgar Degas Art is not what you see, but what you make others see
 GRAHAME BOOTH 2017 | PRIVACY POLICY
Some specialised art bags can be very expensive. I use a camera bag from Amazon which works great. I can fit everything I need into this bag, including a compact easel, pens, pencils, brushes, paints, water carrier, quarter sheet paper and even a tiny PA system that I use when demonstrating. It is easy to carry and it is small enough to take on board an aircraft.
W  A  T  E  R  C  O  L  O  U  R
W  A  T  E  R  C  O  L  O  U  R